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Meaty German
Review
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THE only thing missing is the oom-pah-pah. Otherwise, the newly-opened Bavarian Bierhaus in Jaya 33 has an unmistakable German feel.
The late afternoon heat sends us scrambling for the tall sofa seats in the cooler back section of the restaurant and a tall glass of well-chilled Konig Ludwig Weissbier. The golden brew has fruity hints of apples and bananas and a fine finish.
Bavarian Bierhaus offers a good selection of German beers, including Erdinger, Lowenbrau, Franziskaner and Paulaner beers on draught. But there are fresh fruit juices, mocktails, cocktails, liquors as well as hot beverages.
Pork is the biggest attraction here. Bavarian Bierhaus offers customers a choice of regular or organic pork. You can start with a Cold Cut Platter (RM32) of Black Forest ham, parma ham, salami and mortadella served with gherkins, mustard and bread.
But I prefer the Scallops and Proscuitto Ham (RM20). Whole fresh scallops are lovingly wrapped with slivers of proscuitto ham, skewered and grilled. The saltiness of the ham brings out the best side of the sweet scallops. The scallops are served with toasted sourdough bread, a whole pickled cucumber and a salad on the side.
There are nine types of sausages or wursts on the menu. The restaurant manager assures me that all are imported from Germany and that the most popular is the knackwurst (RM39).
We decide to have something different. Bauernwurst (RM39) sounds inviting. The German Farmer's sausage is served with sauerkraut, mashed potatoes, sauteed onions and horseradish. But it was disappointingly dry and coarse on the palate.
The Merquez or lamb sausage fares better both in flavour and texture. This comes with sauerkraut and pan-fried potatoes.
The highly recommended organic pork knuckles (RM82), served with a knife plunged into its centre, turns out to be a winner.
According to the menu, the organic pork is free of beta agonist, antibiotics, pesticides and low in fat and cholesterol.
Don't know about all that but the meat is extremely tender and tasty. The skin is so beautifully roasted it brings tears to my eyes to hear the crackle under the knife and echo with each bite.
Nicely flavoured too, with garlic and herbs. The serving is big, so light eaters may want to share as it comes with side dishes and a choice of sauce. Regular pork knuckle is RM58.
Apart from knuckle, there are pork chop, pork loin and pork belly and German specialties like roasted pork shoulder, meat balls, cutlets and a rather forgettable meat loaf. The meatballs have great texture. It's served with a spaetzle and red cabbage. Unfortunately the thick white sauce is disappointingly floury.
I love the baby back ribs (RM70) for two persons. The long rack of ribs comes with two types of sauces - a fruity pineapple sauce that's sweet and tangy as well as my favourite, a fragrant jalapeno peach sauce. The ribs are tender and finger-licking good, served on a bed of sauteed mushroom, cauliflower, broccoli, carrot, capsicum and zucchini.
Not keen on pork? There's beef tenderloin, lamb shank, panfried rainbow trout with a delicious lemon herb butter and chicken breast stuffed with asparagus and mozarella cheese.
The dessert menu is short and sweet. At RM12 each, there's apple strudel, Rote Gruetze (mixed berries puree) and a warm chocolate pudding.
Open from 11am to midnight daily, Bavarian Bierhaus also serves a weekday set lunch for RM19 with soup, main course and soft drink. There are four choices of main courses daily. For instance, on Monday, there are grilled chicken escalope, grilled white sausage, ham and cheese sandwich and grilled pork loin.
On Wednesday, there are fish stew, pita bread with sausage, linguine and chicken fricassee.
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By : TAN BEE HONG
Date : 18 Jul 2010
Source : New Straits Times
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